Exploring Wisconsin's Hidden Gems

Aldo Leopold.  A 40 foot deep gorge.  Prickly Pear cactus and desert.  Just a few of the hidden gems I recently explored in Wisconsin.

Finding places I haven't explored before in Wisconsin is always an exciting adventure.  When my brother decided to pay a visit for the first weekend of Autumn, we decided (as we always do) to go out for a hike and explore.  This time we picked the Baraboo and Spring Green areas of Wisconsin which lie in the Dirftless Area of Wisconsin.

Aldo Leopold Foundation

We started our quick two day journey of exploration at the Aldo Leopold Foundation.  If you don't know who Aldo Leopold is, he's known as the father of wildlife conservation and was an early leader in the American wilderness movement.  (Read more about him on the Wilderness.net.)

While visiting we decided to take the self guided tour through the land along the Wisconsin River that his family owned and worked to restore.  The Shack the family lived in is still there to this day and so are some landmarks of the work he did.  Overall it was a humbling experience to be able to view and feel the work he did here which has resonated far beyond the boundaries of his property.

Aldo Leopold Shack

The Aldo Leopold Foundation is definitely worth the visit.

Pewits Nest State Natural Area

Definitely a hidden gem in Wisconsin.  Pewits Nest State Natural Area in Baraboo, WI is pretty well hidden with no signs leading to it.  It's one of those places you need to know exists to find it.  Which makes it a perfect place to explore.   Upon arriving we hit the trail and starting walking toward the gorge.  One of the first things I noticed when we hit the forest was the wall of rock that was growing as we walked the trail.

Within a short distance we took the trail that lead us down to Skillet Creek where we could peer into the gorge and see a small waterfall.

Skillet Creek and Pewits Nest Gorge

Next we wandered around and to the trail above the gorge and followed the creek to the end of the gorge and park.  We noticed many small waterfalls and different views of the gorge.  

Skillet Creek and Pewits Nest Gorge

View down into the gorge

After hiking the trail and returning to the car, I felt lucky to have found this place.  From the road I would have never guessed what was just beyond the edge of the forest and in the middle of the farmer's fields that lie around it.  Definitely worth a visit to see the splendor that the retreating glaciers left for us to explore.

Spring Green Preserve

Did you know Wisconsin has a desert where prickly pear cactus grow naturally?  No?  Neither did I.  Upon arriving at the Spring Green Preserve I  immediately noticed a difference in this area versus the adjoining landscapes.  Upon hitting the trail which was dry, sandy soil I saw prickly pear cactus.  Even the ridge line in the distance was different than the others.  All the ones around it held forests, but not this one.

Prickly Pear Cactus at Spring Green Preserve

Spring Green Preserve - "Wisconsin's Desert"

We hiked the 1.6 mile trail (one way) through the prairie taking in the beauty of the fall colors of the prairie grasses.  The trail itself winds its way behind and up the bluff and provides a great overview of the surrounding area.  

Spring Green Preserve Trail end - overview of surrounding area from atop the bluff

My brother and I continued to explore additional areas over the two days we had and found some amazing places to explore that we had never been to and places we've explored before, but were worth another visit.  In addition to the above we explored:

• Bakken's Pond State Natural Area - definitely another worth visiting.  It's a wetlands area that is home to many species of animals including the Sandhill Cranes we heard and then finally saw as they took off over the pond.
• Devil's Lake - no visit to this area is complete without a quick trip to Devil's Lake State Park.  Today we hiked the East Bluff and saw plenty of turkey vultures floating on the thermals.  
• Tower Hill State Park - A smaller state park, but another not to miss.  We camped here and visited the Shot Tunnel and watched the reflections of the seasonal changes of the trees in the river.
• Ferry Bluff State Natural Area - we hiked the short trail that brings you up to the top of Ferry Bluff and provides great views of the Wisconsin River and the surrounding area.  

Fall is a great time to get outdoors and explore.  And the Driftless Area provides plenty of opportunities to view fall colors in their glory.  

And today I'll switch it up a little bit, instead of a John Muir quote to end this post, we'll reflect on Aldo Leopold.

"Our ability to perceive quality in nature begins, as in art, with the pretty.  It expands through successive stages of the beautiful to values as yet uncaptured by language" Aldo Leopold

Spring Training at Devil's Lake State Park

Spring Training at Devil's Lake State Park

With another trip just around the corner to go backpacking in the Pacific Northwest I figured Devil's Lake State Park would be the perfect spot to get in one last good training day.  Devil's Lake State Park, located in the Driftless Area of Wisconsin has some great bluffs bordering each side of Devils Lake.  Great for training when you need to get some quick elevation gain.

Devil's Lake: East Bluff and West Bluff trails

Spring At Devil's Lake State Park

Having trained in Spring 2013 at Devil's Lake State Park for my Mt Whitney trip with Backpacker Magazine for Big City Mountaineers, I knew to expect the East Bluff Trail to be in a little worse condition that the West Bluff Trail due to the lack of sunlight in some areas.  Well, I'm not sure that was the case today.  With our crazy winter this year of freezing temps and snow on the ground for 90+ days, spring is coming slow.  

The trails were clear in some spots, snow covered in locations and ice covered in many locations.  Carrying a full pack of gear, maneuvering off trail to get around the ice on the slopes of the bluffs was a challenge.  But one that I was willing to take and enjoying.  

Snow on the East Bluff Trail at Devil's Lake State Park

Still Winter at Devil's Lake State Park?

The best part of training today at Devil's Lake State Park was that I found a little bit of winter.  With my love for cold weather, snow and winter, I felt like not only did I get a good day of training, I got to experience winter one more time.  Arriving at the park it was 28 degrees (20 degrees with the wind), small random flakes of snow falling were present and the lake was still frozen over.  I'll take it.  And I needed it - a little bit of winter is a great way to refresh the soul while training.

Devil's Lake frozen over (March 2014)

“I care to live only to entice people to look at Nature’s loveliness.”    John Muir.

And I hope I inspire some of you to look at, feel and be with nature - it gives far more than it receives.

Related Reading:

• Continuing to Explore the Driftless Area
• Unglaciated Wisconsin - The Driftless Area

Canyons and Waterfalls in Illinois

Living in the Midwest, sometimes it's hard to believe that the terrain isn't really as flat as one would think when thinking of the Midwest.

This weekend I was reminded again of the beauty left behind by the glaciers that came through centuries ago.  I've visited Starved Rock State Park in Utica, IL a couple of times before, but always in the fall for the fall colors.  As you drive up toward the park entrance, you don't think anything of it.  The land is flat all around you with a few hills, but nothing that would make you think you were driving into something amazing.  You drive over the Illinois River and you start to get a glimpse, but really, still no visual clues of what you're going to be experiencing once you enter the park.

Illinois River from Starved Rock State Park

Once you turn off and enter the park, you start to get an idea though.  You drive down a road that is bordered by large rock bluffs overlooking you.  You start to get an idea of what was to come.  But even driving into the main parking lot - still not much of a giveaway to what you just parked your car in the middle of.

Once you get out of the car and hit the first trail that takes you on along the river, you'll start to see the magic of what the glaciers and the Illinois River did to this area.  The glaciers and river carved out some incredible canyons along the river, leaving behind beauty one could never have imagined when driving toward the park.

Being the beginning of spring, this weekend provided even more amazing sights to be seen while hiking through the park to view all the canyons.  The spring melt off of what winter threw at the park left myself and other visitors great views of the waterfalls and remaining ice falls that come to life in the spring.

Ice Fall and Waterfall in French Canyon - Starved Rock State Park

When watching these waterfalls, you get the idea this landscape is still changing and will continue to change with each passing year.  As the ice and snow melt and create these wonderful waterfalls, the rock continues to be carved out and the land below changes with the sediment from the waterfalls and the washout to the Illinois River.

Illinois Canyon at Starved Rock State Park

This is an amazing place to visit in central Illinois.  And if you like waterfalls - don't stop here.  Make sure you check out some other of the amazing places the Midwest has to offer that the glaciers have provided us.  No, the Midwest is not flat.  Here's some great ideas to visit:

• Minnesota's Superior Coast
• Wisconsin's Driftless Area
• Shawnee National Forest in Southern Illinois

Get out and enjoy what nature has provided you.
"Keep close to Nature's heart, yourself; and break clear away once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.  Wash your spirit clean."  John Muir.

2012 - A Year Outdoors

Great Outdoors

Never realized when I titled my blog the Great Outdoors that literally I'd be spending so much time in the outdoors.  And 2012 has proven to be just a bunch of experiences enjoying life outside.  I'm so glad I have the ability and opportunities to experience what I do and look forward to doing more of it in 2013 and bringing more people along for the hike.

Mt Kilimanjaro

January and February, I trained, trained and trained some more as I got ready to tackle one of the seven summits - Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa.  It was quite an experience.  To not only climb 19,340 ft (5895 m), but to meet some great people, experience a different culture and throw in a safari to boot.  

Uhuru Peak - Mt Kilimanjaro

42 Nights of Camping

Yes, 42 nights - that's a lot (12% of nights in 2012).  I beat 2011 by 2 nights.  I don't intend to beat 42 in 2013.  Some experiences were great, some ok and some stressful (when you lose your phone).  The majority of the best nights in a tent came with a backpacking experience.  But also - a few camping experiences allowed me to get people out camping with me and help them (or most of them) gain an appreciation of the outdoors.  And finally I got to explore a lot more of the Driftless Area of Wisconsin.  Hiking and camping in state parks I'd never been to.  I think I now have the entire driftless area covered for state parks.

Backpacking

The first night in a tent came back in February 2012 with a snowshoe trip up in the Kettle Crest Range in northern Washington.  Hanging out up in the mountains overnight in the winter was incredible.  Not only was I the first one to sign in to the log book on Wapaloosie Mountain for 2012, but from the top we could also see into Canada.  

View from camp in the Kettle Range Mountains of Washington 

Other memorable backpacking experiences of 2012:

• Yellow River State Forest in Iowa - the hilly area of Iowa.  Very pretty, quiet.  May 2012
• Superior Trail in northern Minnesota - what a beautiful area.  Need to get back here again.  Labor Day weekend.
• Kokanee Glacier National Park in British Columbia, Canada.  Beautiful and quiet in mid-September.  But sad to see the glacier is receding.  Hopefully they get a lot of snow pack this year to help build it back up.

Other Great Experiences

View from Mt Kit Carson, Spokane, WA

• Timms Hill - Wisconsin's highest point.  Not quite the same as Kilimanjaro, but still another one of the USA's 50 highest points picked off.  (1500+ ft)
• Christmas in Washington - got to visit my brother in Newman Lake and take in some great hikes and snowshoeing in the area.  Finally got to go to Mt Spokane State Park and get to the top of Mt Kit Carson via snowshoe.  (And had the peak to myself)
• Dogs - Jasmine and Wailea made it another year - ableit a few surgeries to fix a torn ACL (Wailea) and remove a ~7 lb tumor and her spleen (Jasmine).  The dogs managed to get in 33 nights in a tent and traveled to 6 states.  Hopefully both remain healthy enough to continue in 2013.  

Backpacker Magazine, Mt Whitney and 2013

Mid-year 2012 I found out Backpacker Magazine was offering up to its readers an opportunity to climb Mt Whitney with their editor, Jon Dorn.  So in July, I wrote and submitted an essay, wrote my "I Want to Climb Mt Whitney" blog post and had wonderful friends support me via posts to it to try and get to selected to join Backpacker in their Mt Whitney summit attempt.  

After what seemed like forever, I got a response.  I was lucky enough to be selected to join Backpacker Magazine to climb Mt Whitney and support a great organization - Big City Mountaineers via Summit for Someone.  

Which brings me to 2013.  This climb is in April 2013, but I've started training and am really looking forward to this opportunity.  I'll get to the highest point in the contiguous 48 states (and highest point in CA), experience mountaineering, meet new people and make new friends, help some under-privileged youth get a great experience as well and finally get to the Sierra Nevada's.  I can't wait.  I'm sure this will be one of my highlights for 2013.

Special Thanks

Thank you to everyone who has joined me and supported me in all the adventures of 2012.  And if you didn't join me - feel free to join me in 2013.

Continuing to Explore the Driftless Area

This year I continue to explore the Driftless Area's of Wisconsin and Iowa.  The more I explore this area of southwest Wisconsin and northeast Iowa, the more I like it.  Being someone who loves being outdoors and in the mountains, but is stuck living in the midwest, this is the closest I can get to feeling like I'm in the mountains.

So far every weekend since May 12th and one weekend in April has been spent in this area exploring different state parks and state forests.  This includes backpacking as well as car camping.  The Yellow River State Forest in Iowa was definitely a surprise.  I had no idea this was here and was quite surprised at how hilly this region of Iowa was.  Backpacking into and up the hills to find a perfect campsite was a great opportunity to explore the area.  In a full day of backpacking I saw 2 guys who were back camping in the designated backpack camping area I selected and a group of boy scouts.

Trail up to Schulz Camp - Yellow River State Forest, IA

Another surprise so far this year was the Black River State Forest in Wisconsin.  Day 1 of hiking here revealed a couple of things:  this state forest is also allows 4 wheelers (thankfully they have their own trails far away from the hiking trails) and has trails for them and the bad management of how to clear a forest (the eastern edge of the Wildcat Trail left plenty to be desired).  But Day 2 also showed an absolutely beautiful ridge line that runs on the east side of the forest hiking trail area.  And I learned that you can backpack in to this state forest as well.  This area is on my radar to visit again this fall for a backpacking trip with the dogs.

View from the Ridge Trail west - Black River State Forest,  WI

As I've been exploring I've been visiting new state parks in the southwest region of Wisconsin.  So far I have learned

• Mirror Lake State Park is a little too close to I-90/I-94.  When the park quiets down at night, all you can hear is cars / trucks traveling on the freeway.  And one of the trails there basically has you following the edge of the freeway.  Will not visit this park again.
• Wildcat Mountain - if reserving a campsite here, be leary when ReserveAmerica.com states it as a "fully" shaded site.  I learned this is not the case as I woke up with the sun turning my tent into a sauna and had to get out of it by 5 am.  

          But I did learn that you can backpack into the Kickapoo Valley Reserve just down a few miles from Wildcat Mountain State Park.  I also have this on my list of things to do this fall once the trees turn colors.  This area is beautiful and full of big hills and valleys that are all green.  

View out over the Kickapoo River Valley 

Beyond that I've also explored Roche-A-Cri State Park which is a nice, smaller park in the Driftless Area.  The center of this park has the Roche-A-Cri mound which has a stairway to get to the top (300 stairs).  The view from the top is pretty amazing as you can see for miles in every direction.  The morning I climbed the stairs I got to watch a storm in the distance with the sun trying to break through the clouds.  What a beautiful way to start the day.

View from atop Roche-A-Cri Mound - Roche-A-Cri State Park, WI

And lastly I've been to Governor Dodge State Park two times already this year camping and Devil's Lake for camping and hiking.

Governor Dodge twice because in April it's one of the few parks in that area that has the campground open year round.  And then again a couple of weeks ago to try out one of their backpacking sites.  The backpacking sites are actually quite nice, but are only a short 1/2 mile hike from the parking lot.  

So that's just the start of the year of exploring the Driftless Area's of Wisconsin and Iowa.  More to come and a lot more to explore yet.

Unglaciated Wisconsin - The Driftless Area

This year I've been doing a lot of exploring and hiking around the southern half of Wisconsin.  I've become most facinated with the SW corner of the state and the landscape.  This area, known as The Driftless area, has lots of rolling hills and streams thanks to being missed by the glacier's that rolled through this area thousands of years ago. 

The more I explore and drive around the back roads in this section of Wisconsin, the more I don't feel like I'm really in Wisconsin. 

This weekend I did some hiking at Bluemound State Park, Governor Dodge State Park and the Ferry Bluff State Natural Area.  All great hikes with great views and surprisingly - not a lot of people. 

With the rain that came in Friday night, the trails at Bluemound State Park were peopleless on Saturday morning.  This left the beauty of an overnight rainfall right where it was when I hiked the trails.  Upon entering the bottom of Pleasant Valley, I followed the stream and saw the mist still lingering.  It was beautiful because just at that time, the sun also started to peep through the clouds and the trees.

Stream at the bottom of Pleasure Valley

Later that day I took my dogs and drove over to Governor Dodge State Park so we could hike the full 3 mile loop of the Lost Canyon Trail.  We had done part of this a few weeks back when we walked down to view Stephen's Falls.  Because it was afternoon and the sun had already come out, there were a few people on this trail, but still for the beauty of this trail, it remained mostly peopleless.  At the bottom of the canyon there were many stream crossings.  The walls of the canyon are full of rock and trees.  Sitting down here you feel no pressure to move fast and can take the time to find artwork in the rocks.

Rock wall - almost looks like the profile of a face

Sunday after doing a little more hiking at Bluemounds State Park - I ventured off to find Ferry Bluff State Natural Area near Sauk City, WI.  I had heard that this area lead to great views overlooking the Wisconsin River and the Driftless Area.  It sure did - even with the oppressive heat (mid-90's & humid), the hike up to the top was worth it. 

Wisconsin River from atop Ferry Bluff

All in all, not a bad weekend visiting the Driftless Area of Wisconsin.  Now to plan to visit some of the unglaciated areas of Wisconsin and see what else I can find.