Mt Baker National Recreation Area - Railroad Grade & Park Butte Backpacking

Mt Baker National Recreation Area

After having just finished a five day backpack trip through the Glacier Peak Wilderness, we decided to take a shorter and cooler backpacking trip on the west side of the Cascade Mountain Range.  After driving over and spending the night at Baker Lake, we woke up in the morning, packed and headed up to the trailhead.

Railroad Grade and Park Butte Trails

Arriving early at the trailhead on a Friday morning, we were lucky enough to beat the weekend crowds.  As we hiked up toward where we would set up camp, the sun rose higher along with the heat and humidity.  Though not as hot as it was on the east side of the Cascades, the humidity made it feel just as warm and sticky.

After passing the trail junction for Railroad Grade and Park Butte, we got our first good views of Mt Baker.  It was beautiful, majestic and inviting.  A few pictures and we continued on to Cathedral Pass where we put up base camp for the night.  Not a bad hike, about 1300 feet of elevation gain.

First views of Mt Baker from the Railroad Grade / Park Butte trails.

Once arriving at Cathedral Pass and setting up camp, we decided to explore.  We were happy to drop the heaviness of the packs and carry a lighter pack for the day with only the essentials that we needed.  First we headed back down to the junction of the Railroad Grade and Park Butte trails and headed up toward the climbers camp on Mt Baker via the Railroad Grade trail.  This trail runs along the top of a ridge line toward Mt Baker and its glaciers.  It is exposed and provided us some good exposure in the sun (ie, make sure to wear sunblock) and great views of Mt Baker and the surrounding area.  We were even able to see Glacier Peak in the distance where we had just spent five days backpacking.

View looking down the Railroad Grade Trail and the Cascades in the distance.

Mt Baker from just above Climbers Camp on the Railroad Grade Trail

Taking a break to take in the views once we reached the climber's camp, we decided to head up further on the trail.  At our high point we were at an elevation of 5,990 ft on Mt Baker (10,781 ft).  If only we had time and the gear to climb to the top.  But after spending time on Mt. Baker we decided to head back down toward camp.  We were hot from the heat, humidity and exposure.

At camp we took a break, finished setting up camp and built a snowman, which in this heat didn't last very long.  But when you have snow and time for a break - what else is one to do?

Building a snowman at Cathedral Pass @ Mt Baker

After dinner we decided to take a hike and head up to Park Butte.  Park Butte is in the Mount Baker Wilderness Area and is a restored 1933 fire lookout.  Upon arriving at the top we explored the fire lookout and took in the views all around us.  

Park Butte Fire Lookout on top of the ridge

View out from Park Butte fire lookout at Mt Baker

View from Park Butte fire lookout over toward the storms 

On the day we headed up, storms rolled in to the south and west.  It was pretty interesting to watch the sheets of rain move through to the south of us.  On our way back down to camp, we took time to wander around and take a look in the pools for reflections.  We ended up with some pretty good shots of Mt Baker.

Reflecting pool with Mt Baker in the background

We finally decided to head back down toward camp for the night.  As we arrived in camp, the sun started to set and provided us with some great views over the peaks in the distance.  

Sunsetting from Mt Baker National Recreation Area

As the sun set, it was time to end another great day in the Cascades.  Tomorrow we would wake up, pack up and head out.  Another trip comes to a close.  I felt refreshed.

"Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.  Wash your spirit clean."  John Muir

Glacier Peak Wilderness Backpacking - Spider Gap - Buck Creek Pass Loop

Glacier Peak Wilderness

Glacier Peak Wilderness holds the Northern Cascades only wilderness volcano.  And in this year when we celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Wilderness Act, it was a perfect time to go into the remote wilderness area and explore.  No we didn't climb it, but we did spend 5 days at the end of July backpacking through the majestic beauty that surrounds it.

With the late snow that came in this year and the heat that came with the end of July, we were in for a treat.

Day 1 - Trinity Trailhead 

We started the day in Spokane, WA and drove to the Trinity Trailhead.  After parking the car here, we had a 3 mile hike up to the Spider Meadow trailhead.  I was thankful once those three miles were over and we were able to head into the woods and shade.  The goal was to hike to Spider Meadow, but after another couple of miles, the heat and lack of sleep took its toll on us.  We found a camp spot in the woods and decided to call it a day.  As we finished dinner and settled in - we had our first of many experiences with the wildlife in the wilderness.  A female mule deer wandered into camp.  She must have enjoyed our presence as she kept coming back.

Day 2 - Spider Meadow, Spider Gap & Upper Lyman Lakes

Spider Meadow looking toward Spider Gap

Waking up to a beautiful morning in the wilderness refreshed, we packed our gear and headed to Spider Meadow and Spider Gap.  Spider Meadow still held some of its beauty of wildflowers and gave us an amazing view toward Spider Gap and the peaks around it.  We also got our first view of the many marmots we would encounter in the wilderness and more mule deer grazing in the meadow.

After hiking through the meadow we climbed the trail up to Spider Gap and finally got a view of the Spider Glacier.  All reports for this trip stated to bring an ice ax with you to climb over the glacier.  But with the heat we had on this trip, the conditions of the glacier made it so that you didn't need it.  It was an amazing 1/2 mile hike up the glacier to the top and the high point of this trip (7100 ft).  The coolness of the snow and ice of the glacier made it so the heat that was bearing down on us didn't feel so bad.  

Tip: Take time once you get to the top for a break and the opportunities to take some great photos of the glacier and the Upper Lyman Lakes area.

Spider Glacier with a view back out toward Spider Meadow

Upper Lyman Lakes from Spider Gap

After taking a break and enjoying the views it was time to head down to the Upper Lyman Lakes area.  The hike down was fun through the soft snow until we hit the end of the snow.  At that point it turns into a scramble down loose rock.  And then you find the mosquitoes.  After another break to take some pictures of the Upper Lyman Lakes area we headed over to the other side of the bogs and where we would camp for the evening.

Lyman Glacier from Upper Lyman Lake

View back toward Upper Lyman Lakes, bogs and Spider Gap

After setting up camp, we had time to wander around the area and take in the reflections in the pools of water that were all over in this area.  But with that said, we also had the pleasure of battling the mosquitoes - head nets were a necessity.

Camp in the Upper Lyman Lakes area.

Sun setting above Spider Gap

Evening brought us the beauty of the sun setting in the wilderness.  And with the clouds in the sky, it was even more beautiful.

Day 3 - Upper Lyman Lakes to Miners Creek / Image Lake

Waking up to another glorious morning in the wilderness (even with the mosquitoes buzzing around), we ate breakfast and headed out to our next destination:  Miners Creek to camp and a side day trip to Image Lake. Our first obstacle of the day (besides the mosquitoes) came as we got down toward Lyman Lake and had to cross the river via a downed tree.  Now crossing a river over a downed tree is not that bad, but this one happened to be right over a rapid and falls.  If you slipped on the log it was a not a short fall or would it be a soft landing - you would probably get hurt.

Lyman Falls

Lyman Falls crossing

After a quick stop to take pictures of Lyman Lake we headed up to Cloudy Pass and our connection with the Pacific Crest Trail.  Make sure to take some time once you get up on Cloudy Pass to enjoy your last view of Lyman Lake and Spider Gap.  And to take in the view of all the wildflowers in the meadow up on the pass.

Cloudy Pass looking back at Lyman Lake and Spider Gap

Cloudy Pass wildflowers - Lupine, Heather and Paintbrush

Once over Cloudy Pass, it is a short 1 mile hike to the Suiattle Pass and then down to Miners Creek.  At Miners Creek we diverge from the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and set up camp across from an older Miner's Cabin. 

Miners Cabin @ Miners Creek - Image Lake Trail

From here we take a 7 mile side trip to Image Lake.  This is not to be missed.  On this side trip we encountered our next adventure with a water crossing, meadows full of wildflowers and our first good views of Glacier Peak.  And of course Image Lake.  

Paintbrush and wildflowers in the meadows on the trail to Image Lake

Image Lake with Glacier Peak in the background.

Marmots all over the place, this one was hiding out along the trail.

Falls and crossing area at about noon.

Falls and crossing area at 5 pm

Water crossing area at 5 pm.  At noon we had rocks to cross, not at 5 pm.

Day 3 was a lot of hiking, but the side trip to Image Lake was well worth it.

Day 4 - Miners Creek to Buck Creek Pass

Today we had more friendly visitors to camp while we were eating breakfast.  We had seen him the evening before but today he came back with his lady friend.

It also felt like the hottest day so far on our trip.  We headed down from Miners Creek and out toward Buck Creek Pass.  As we headed up to the first pass and took a break, we found a side trail that we explored before heading on the rest of the way to Buck Creek Pass.  The side trip was well worth it.  It took us to another meadow full of wildflowers.  

Side trip to another meadow of wildflowers and great views of the mountains around us.

After heading back to the trail, we continued on toward Buck Creek Pass and where we would spend the night.  We stayed up on top of the pass where we could have nice views of Glacier Peak and the surrounding area.  And of course more wildlife.  

Mule deer shaking off the bugs.

Glacier Peak from Buck Creek Pass @ the start of sunset.

Sunset from Buck Pass looking toward the Pacific Ocean

What a great way to end the day and for our last night in the Glacier Peak Wilderness.  It was hard to believe the next day we'd wake up, pack up and head out.

Day 5:  Buck Creek Pass to Trinity Trailhead

Day 5, it came so fast.  After waking up early to watch the sun rise on Glacier Peak it was time to pack up and head out of this beautiful wilderness area.

Sunrise on Glacier Peak from Buck Creek Pass

It was 9.6 miles from camp to the car, but it was a beautiful hike down through the forest and valleys.  As we hit Buck Creek and followed the trail toward the car, we passed a number of avalanche areas which are just amazing to see.  For all the beauty nature offers us, it can also be very destructive.

Glacier Peak Wilderness - Buck Creek trail and route out

Glacier Peak Wilderness - Avalanche area along Buck Creek

As this trip came to a close, I got the same feeling I get every time I go out on a trip like this.  I always feel like I'm losing a part of myself when I head out of the wilderness.  Not because I'm leaving it in the wilderness, but because I can't take the wilderness with me.  In the wilderness I feel whole, at one with nature.  It's always a different challenge which is something I crave and enjoy.

Good thing is after this trip, I headed over to Mt Baker and did another backpacking trip.  It was a relief to know I could head right back into the wilderness.

Trip stats:
Dates:  July 26 - 30, 2014
Elevation gain:  11,082 ft
Elevation loss:  10,999 ft
Distance:  ~48 miles

"Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn." John Muir

More information on Glacier Peak Wilderness.

Munising and Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Waterfalls Winter to Spring

Northern Michigan Waterfalls

Northern Michigan has some amazing waterfalls scattered throughout its vast expanse of wilderness and park areas.  Last December (2013) I visited Munising for a couple of days after Christmas to snowshoe at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and visit a few of the Munising, Michigan area waterfalls.  With plenty of snow on the ground and cold temperatures coming in, we got some pretty breathtaking and up close views of the waterfalls in their frozen or nearly frozen state.  (This was prior to the polar vortex moving south.)

Of course, after the winter we had with snow and cold, I started to wonder what these same waterfalls would look like in the spring months.  So off I went on Memorial Day Weekend 2014 back up to the Munising area to find out.  With spring being cold and seeming to come in late, some waterfalls still had ice at the bottom and even Lake Superior still had ice.  It was pretty amazing to see.  But all the waterfalls were flowing briskly and providing another view of nature's beauty.

Laughing Whitefish Falls

Laughing Whitefish Falls State Park is just west of of the Munising area.  It's a smaller state park with a nice trail that you can take to get to the waterfall.  In the winter the road to this park is not maintained and you do need to park out near the main road and go by foot.  If you have the right amount of snow, you can easily make it into a beautiful snowshoe hike.  In the summer, it's a quick walk from the parking lot to the falls.  You can also connect from this trail to the North Country Trail if you want to extend your hike for a few more miles or a few more days.

Laughing Whitefish Falls, December 26, 2013

Laughing Whitefish Falls, May 26, 2014

Wagner Falls

Wagner Falls is located just before you get into Munising on M94.  You can park along the road and take the short path that will lead you to the falls.  

Wagner Falls, December 28, 2013

Wagner Falls, May 24, 2014

 Munising Falls

Munising Falls is amazing in the winter.  The ice fall is big.  And even with the ice, you can still hear the water that is cascading down inside the waterfall.  Munising Falls is a short drive from Munising and is at the entrance to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore before you get to Sand Point.  In the winter, the stairs that lead up to the higher level views of the waterfalls are roped off.  But if you visit at that time of the year, you'll notice that doesn't stop people from going up and even behind the waterfall for a close up view.

Munising Falls, December 26, 2013

Munising Falls, May 24, 2014

Miners Falls

Miners Falls is within the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore area.  In the winter it's a bit more of a challenge to get to as the roads within Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore are not maintained and you will need to park ~3 miles from Miners Falls.  Snowshoes again are the perfect way to get to the falls and to continue on and explore the park.  In summer you can drive to the parking area for the waterfall and hike the short .6 miles to the waterfall.

Miners Falls, December 27, 2013

Miners Falls, May 25, 2014

Miners Castle and the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore Superior shoreline

No trip to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore would be complete without a trip to Miners Castle.  Even in the winter when it requires backcountry snowshoeing along Miners River and through the wilderness forest.  And no, there are not any trails that lead from Miners Falls to Miners Castle - we went a little of course and navigated our own way.

Miners Castle, December 27, 2013

Miners Castle, May 25, 2014

These are just a few of the many waterfalls in Northern Michigan.  They're definitely worth a visit and even worth the challenge in winter.  Snowshoe in and you'll have these places all to yourself, along with the beauty of winter and nature all around you.

I encourage you to break away and explore these beautiful places.  And for this post - there is no better quote from John Muir that describes how I felt when visiting these places both in winter and in spring.

"The snow is melting into music."  John Muir

Searching for Fall Colors - Shawnee National Forest

Fall is in the air and so is the search for fall colors.  In Wisconsin for Fall 2013 - colors have been hard to find.  Multiple trips to Kettle Moraine State Forest have left me high and dry.  Lots of yellows, browns and greens.  No eye or breath catching oranges and reds or any of the other colors that make Fall feel like Autumn.

Finally, after weeks of searching and researching online, a perfect opportunity presented itself for me to find fall color.

Shawnee National Forest, Garden of the Gods Wilderness and the River to River Trail

Southern Illinois.  Shawnee National Forest, Garden of the Gods Wilderness and the River to River Trail.  I heard the colors were peaking and the weather was going to be warm after a couple of days of rain.  So on November 1st with a day of vacation, 7 hours of driving, the dogs and I were heading down to the southern tip of Illinois to do a backpack trip on the River to River Trail out of Garden of the Gods Wilderness area.

I visited this area once before in October 2011 and was completely amazed by the landscape.  The Shawnee National Forest is in the Ozark and Shawnee Forest area of southern Illinois and was the southern end of a glacier.  Because of this, there are many hills, valleys and some amazing rock formations in the area. It also lies between the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers - thus leading to the River to River Trail.

Garden of the Gods - Shawnee National Forest, IL

Arriving at the backpacker's parking lot, I was one of two cars in the lot - and the other car was camping just inside the wilderness area.  To me, that meant, once I was away from the parking lot - I probably had the forest all to myself (well me and my two dogs of course).  And I was right.  The tranquility of the trail, the beauty of the fall colors and the swampiness conditions of the muddy trail made for a perfect way to welcome in November.  

Fall colors from a side hike into Garden of the Gods Wilderness

After a day of hiking and taking in the beauty around me, I found the perfect camp area on the edge of a bluff overlooking a valley.  And with day light dwindling early, I made dinner and settled in to watch the sun set over the hills of the Shawnee National Forest.

Sun setting on the trees at camp on the River to River Trail

View out over the Hills of Shawnee National Forest from the River to River Trail

After a restful night and watching an incredible sunrise - I packed up camp just as the next round of rain hit.  A quick hike back to the car and we were off to do a little more exploring of the eastern side of the Shawnee National Forest for another day before heading back to Wisconsin.

Finding fall colors, spending a night in the wilderness was just what my soul needed.  

"Going to the woods is going home." John Muir