Taking in Lake Superior's Ice Caves

With a winter that has lived up to the predictions of being piercing cold and snowy (Farmer's Almanac predictions for 2014), we are able to get a glimpse of something we don't get to see very often and it is predicted that we will get to see less and less in the future.  Lake Superior freezing over.  And as of this week it is about 90+% frozen over (NOAA).

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore Ice Caves

Because Lake Superior has frozen and the shoreline along the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore is frozen, we have an opportunity to visit the Ice Caves located along the shoreline.  And I took advantage of this opportunity.

Visiting the Ice Caves requires a 1.3 mile hike on the ice to arrive at the beginning of the shoreline where the Ice Caves are located.  Because of the national attention this has been getting I chose to splurge and take a few vacation days to visit during the week versus attempting to hike out there when the masses of people are there on the weekend.  This was the perfect decision and a great use of my vacation.

On a Monday morning, when the air temperature was -19 degrees fahrenheit, I laid out the gear I would need to defend against an air temperature this brutally cold and knowing that once I hit the shoreline of a frozen Lake Superior I would run into a cold wind which would drop those temperatures even further.  After inspection and packing - I felt good and was ready to go.

The drive up from Iron River was beautiful, the sun came out and I thought, this will be a good trip.  But as I arrived to the parking area, that all changed.  Snow was coming down, the wind was so strong it was blowing it sideways, there were whiteout conditions and within one minute at the back of my car trying to find gear without gloves on, I needed to get back in the car to warm up my now frozen hands.  As I sat there, I mentally prepared myself and thought - you have the gear, you have hand warmers, you have toe warmers and you came here to go see the caves.  I pulled on all my gear in the car and set out.  My first vision as I hit the shoreline was the view of walking snowmen, in reality it was a couple who were just returning from the caves - the wind and snow was blowing so hard, they were literally caked in snow.  Their word of warning was to be prepared for the trip back from the caves as you walk directly into the wind and snow.  Got it, I was going.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore - Walk to the Ice Caves

The walk out to the Ice Caves was peaceful and quiet - with the weather conditions as they were and being a Monday morning, there was no crowd.  It was an amazing view for what you could see in the whiteout conditions. Lake ice piling up, a wooded shoreline and the anticipation of finding the caves.

After rounding a few bends, the shoreline changes and becomes less wooded and builds up with the sandstone bluffs that makes viewing ice caves possible.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore - Ice

Once I arrived at the sandstone bluffs I spent my time exploring the ice caves and continued down the shoreline for another 1.5 miles.  The ice formations inside these caves was just amazing.  Between the water seeping through the porous sandstone rock to form the hanging ice cicles and the splashing of the water from Lake Superior before it froze over - Mother Nature did her job in creating a wonderland to explore.

Lake Superior Ice Caves

After exploring for a while it was time to turn around and start the trek back toward my car.  Yes, it was windy just as the advice from the walking snowmen was when I started my hike.  But as I turned around to head back, the snow had stopped and the sun was just arriving along the shoreline.  I had timed it just perfectly.  The sun was hitting the ice and providing some amazing views of the sandstone bluffs and the tree lined shores.  

Sun is starting to shine along the Lake Superior shoreline.

Sun hitting the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore - Lake Superior

This was an amazing journey, one that I definitely will not forget.  And thanks to my advanced planning of what gear I would need to survive a cold, windy, snowy day - I never got cold.  I'd definitely do it all over again.

For those that are curious, what does one wear in conditions like this to stay comfortable and warm. Here's a list of what I had on:

Top:

• Smartwool NTS layer
• Polartec Fleece
• Mountain Hardwear Jacket - used my synthetic (similar to the B'Lady)

Bottom:

• Patagonia Capilene 3
• Old pair of Columbia pants
• Old pair of Columbia snow pants

Head / Hands / Feet

• Balaclava
• Hat
• Glacier Glasses
• Scott Gloves (similar to the Traverse)
• Hand warmers
• Wool Boot Socks (LL Bean)
• Toe warmers
• Lands End winter boots

"In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks." John Muir

Longer Days, Higher Sun - Winter's Winding Down

I'm starting the feel spring in the air.  The sun's coming up earlier and going down later.  The birds are singing and I've already seen signs of the daffodil's popping up on the sunny side of my house.

I'm a little sad that winter's winding down.  Snowshoeing today I just felt like it may be one of the last of the season.  The sun was higher in the sky.  The shadows of the trees, longer on the ground.  And the birds were chirping like they were happy that warmer weather is on the way.

High sun, long shadows.  Spring is near.

An Old Proverb

Yes, winter's winding down.  But it's not going out without a fight this year.  As the old proverb says "March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb."  And I believe this year will be no exception.  December and January we saw little snow.  February we saw snow and March is starting off with the forecast of another storm coming.

Plans are already made to take advantage of this next round of snow, as it may be the last.  The snowshoes and headlamp are ready for an evening snowshoe hike along the Milwaukee River.  Because after that, I think we'll see spring.  40 degrees and rain next weekend.  Yup, winter's winding down.

Hiking in the First Snowfall

This December again seems like crazy weather.  Last weekend it was warm enough to camp in my 3-season tent with my dogs.  This weekend it was cooler and north of Milwaukee there was snow.

Snow

Yes, I said snow.  It may have rained all day in Milwaukee, but when I woke up in the morning, I knew that there would be snow today in Wisconsin.  Like a kid waiting for Santa to come, I jumped out of bed, went straight to my computer and Intellicast.com and looked at where the snow line was.  West or north?  Kettle Moraine North or South?  Where was I going to hike today was all I could think of.

Northern Kettle Moraine State Forest

Northern Kettle Moraine State Forest it was.  Snow would be there.  Yeah!  After breakfast I threw the dogs in the car and off we went.  Old hiking boots, Gore-tex jacket and pants, and blaze orange in the car.  Driving to NKM I was a little nervous.  The snow line seemed to not be where it was on the map.  As I drove up 41/45 it kept raining and the thermometer in the car said 37 for quite a while.  Finally after the 41/45 split and passing Cabela's I started to see snow in the farmer's fields along the side of the road, but it was still raining.  By the time I hit West Bend though - there it was SNOW!

By now I was giddy with delight and the dogs were still sleeping in the car (probably thinking I was crazy).  I was going to get to go hiking in snow today.  So I opted to head to the Mauthe Lake area and head out from there on the Ice Age Trail, probably my favorite trail to hike in Wisconsin.  I was not disappointed when I go there.

Ice Age Trail in Northern Kettle Moraine State Forest

I love hiking in snow.  Snow always seems to make hiking seem magical and peaceful.  Today's hike was no different.  I never saw a person until about 2 1/2 miles into my hike and then I never saw another person again.  The majority of the time I was breaking the trail in the snow while listening to the snow fall off branches and the birds sing.

Fresh snow on the Ice Age Trail

The streams that I crossed were just beautiful.  Catching the freshly fallen snow.  I could have just sat there all day watching the snow fall on the water.  Each snowflake melts into the water and moves on to another place, just magical.

One of the streams on the Ice Age Trail in Northern Kettle Moraine State Forest

What a great day I had with the dogs hiking.  Nature is just an amazing thing and winter nature is the best.  There's no better place to be than in nature, taking in the fresh fallen snow, the sounds of the birds and the peace and tranquility it provides.  Especially when it's the first snowfall of the season.

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.  John Muir

Camping in December

When I think of December, I think the start of the holidays, cold days and SNOW.  Not camping with my dogs.

Camping in December

Who would have thought that on December 1st, 2012 I would have gone camping because it was warm.  Yes, warm enough to camp in December.  Too bad when I made my decision at the split for I39, I90 and  I94 that I decided to go to Devil's Lake instead of Governor Dodge State Park.  As I pulled in to Devil's Lake and saw the campground I remembered they were doing construction during the winter.  My choice was to camp in the group campground with a full house or head up to Mirror Lake.  Even though I decided I wouldn't go to Mirror Lake again, I decided it was a better option.

Camping in December at Mirror Lake State Park

And thankfully, I was right.  It was quiet with only 5 of us camping in the entire campground.  The dogs and I hiked there on Saturday and saw one of the other camper and then Sunday morning we had the trails to ourselves.  What a beautiful way to start the day.

Mirror Lake @ 7:30 in the morning with a little ice.

After packing up - I did drive back to Devil's Lake State Park and do the loop around the lake.  What a great day it was.  The park was dead, but it was warm enough for even some climbers to take on the cold stone walls of Devil's Lake.  (Of course, this was the first time I went there and left my climbing gear at home - stupid me.)  So if I can't have snow in December, I guess weather warm enough to take the dogs camping will do.

Autobiography Title - In Search of Snow

A friend of mine put a post on Facebook asking "if you were writing an autobiography, what would the title be?"  Of course my answer was In Search of Snow.  And I started to wonder, why am I so fascinated by snow.

Snow Fascination

As far back as I can remember I've always waited for the snow to come.  And once it came I was like a kid in a candy store.  Growing up my parents provided us an appreciation (whether they know it or not) of the outdoors.  And I think I just appreciated the time more when there was cold weather and snow on the ground.  We camped, we snowmobiled, we ice fished and more.  I remember building snow forts, snowmen, sledding, and ice skating.  What other time of the year could you be so creative?

Snowmobiling in Northern Wisconsin

As an adult, my love of snow has continued.  I may no longer build forts or ride snowmobiles (prefer quiet sports now), but I still build snowmen and camp and now snowshoe, hike and more.  (Who knows, maybe this winter I'll build a fort.)

Snow Packed Vacations

Since around 2007/2008 snow and glaciers have been a major influence as to where I take my vacations.  Probably 95% or more of my vacations have been to places where I will be in or see snow and/or glaciers.  And now that we're seeing the melt off of our glaciers and snow packs, it's all that more important to me to find these areas.  Capture their essence in my memories and hopefully introduce their importance to others.

Fitz Roy & Torre Glacier - El Chalten, Argentina

I also find spending time outside in winter with the snow one of the greatest ways to unwind and relax.  It's one of the best ways to let your mind open up and let the freshness and newness around you in.  Maybe that's why it fascinates me.

Yes - my autobiography would be called In Search of Snow - and now I feel it's time to start planning that next search.  And then maybe ponder actually writing my autobiography.

Perrito Moreno Glacier

Why I Love Winter

With the extreme temperatures this week in the upper midwest I remember why I love winter.  This "feels like" 100+ degrees in Milwaukee, WI is crazy.  Today (Thursday, July 21, 2011) is day 4 and will still be cranking out the heat.

Reasons to love winter:

• Comfortability -  not feeling miserable in the heat
• Layering - add layers of clothing to warm up
• Hot chocolate
• Sleep - it's much easier to sleep in the winter than in the extreme heat
• Snow - big fluffy snow
• Icicles - and the reflections from the sun
• Fleece
• Going outside without sweating

Just a few of the reasons - but right now I'm wishing it was winter and not a hot / sweaty 84 degrees at 6:30 am.  That only means it's going to get worse as the day goes on.

Heat - go away, let winter come this way!